Ecolab Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Ecolab Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Often the problem that appears in the work of dishwasher could be easily solved -a good manual could help. Below there are 3 tables according to 3 brand models, that are dedicated to Ecolab dishwasher troubleshooting. The tables provide a detailed description of possible troubleshooting methods. Instead of fault codes, the table describes the problems.

Ecolab ES-2000 Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Problem Solution
Dishmachine will not fill, though other functions work1. Y-strainer on incoming water line plugged or clogged. Remove strainer and clean out.
2. Water supply valve(s) turned off. Turn the valve(s) on.
3. Faulty solenoid valve diaphragm. Replace diaphragm, clean foreign material out of valve body and orifices.
4. Faulty solenoid coil. If the coil has voltage, but no continuity, replace the coil (continuity is measured across coil connectors with wires removed).
5. Faulty fill microswitch. During fill, measure the voltage between the ORANGE and WHITE/GREEN wires. If it reads 120 volts, adjust or replace the switch
Dishmachine fills continuously, even without power applied to the machine1. Solenoid valve dirty or faulty. Clean valve or replace faulty parts as required
Dishmachine fills continuously, only when power is supplied to the machine1. Faulty fill microswitch. Repair or replace switch as necessary.
2. Cam timer stalled in fill position. If the cam timer is not rotating, check the voltage to the timer motor. If it measures as 120 volts when the door is closed, replace the timer motor.
3. Shorted ON/FILL-OFF/DRAIN switch. Check the voltage between the BLACK and WHITE/GREEN connections on the ON/FILL - OFF/DRAIN switch in the ‘ON” position. If it does not read 120 volts, replace the switch
The wash motor does not run, other functions work. Wash motor only runs when the wash relay is manually pushed down1. Loose wire connection to microswitch, relay, or contactor. Tighten wires as required.
2. Faulty wash cam microswitch. During a wash cycle, check the voltage between the ORANGE and BLACK/ORANGE wires on the wash microswitch. If it reads 120 volts, the switch is open and should be replaced.
3. Faulty NORMAL/DELIME switch. Dunng the wash cycle, check the voltage between the two BLACK/ORANGE wires (not the jumper). If it reads 120 volts, replace the NORMAL/DELIME switch.
4. Faulty control relay. Check the voltage across relay contacts #7 and #4. If it measures 120 volts during the wash cycle, replace the relay.
5. Faulty wash relay. Check the voltage at the relay coil between the ORANGE/BLACK and WHITE wires. If you read 120 volts, then the coil is faulty. Replace the wash relay
The wash motor does not run even when the wash relay is manually depressed; other functions work1. Loose wire connections to motor, delime switch, or from contactors. Tighten wires as necessary.
2. Mechanical binding in pump. If the motor has the correct incoming voltage, and its overload is tripping, repair or replace the pump.
3. Faulty wash motor. If the motor has the correct incoming voltage, and the pump is alright, replace the motor.
4. Faulty wash relay. With the wash relay pushed in, check the voltage between T1 and L1 of relay. If it measures 120 volts, replace the relay.
5. High or low voltage problem. Check voltage at the wash motor and at the incoming power terminal block. Compare to electrical specifications
Wash motor runs continuously1. NORMAL/DELIME switch is in “DELIME’ position. Place the switch in the "NORMAL’’ position.
2. Wash relay welded closed. Turn the machine off. If the wash relay doesn’t release, replace contactor.
3. Cam timer stalled in the wash or rinse cycle. If the cam timer is not rotating, check the voltage to the timer motor. If there is no voltage when the door is closed, check the wires and/or replace the timer motor.
4. Wash motor microswitch is faulty. Tighten the connections, ensuring that the switch makes contact, replace if necessary
Dishmachine runs with the door open1. The door switch may be shorted out. With the machine off, open the doors, and with both wires to the door switch unplugged, measure the continuity between the wires on the switch. If there is continuity, replace the switch.
2. Faulty wash relay. Turn the machine off. If the wash relay does not release, replace it.
3. Faulty control relay. With the power off. remove the WHITE/RED and BLACK/YELLOW wires form the control relay terminals. Measure the continuity between the terminals. If there is continuity, replace the relay
Low wash water pressure1. Water level is too low. Increase the fill time, or decrease the drain time, and verify that incoming water pressure is 20 ±5 PSI.
2. Sump strainer clogged. Clean and re-install.
3. Obstruction in either the wash pump housing or the wash manifold. Disassemble and clear obstruction.
4. Clogged wash arm nozzles. Remove the wash arms, clean the nozzles, then re-install
Dishmachine keeps tripping the service breaker1. The power supply may be shorting to ground. Check for loose wires or burned connections.
2. Faulty door switch or detergent safety switch. Check for a loose or wet connection at the switch and wire connectors. Bypass the switch to verify that it is indeed the problem. Replace the switch if necessary.
3. Pump impeller jammed. Clear the impeller.
4. Wash motor faulty. Check the motor voltage and amperage draw. If amperage draw is over 12 amps, replace the motor
Dishmachine will not drain1. Loose wire connection. Verify that all wire connections are tight.
2. Drain hole may be obstructed. Remove the obstruction.
3. Not enough time for unit to drain. Adjust the drain cam on the timer.
4. Drain rod bent or binding. Repair the rod. or replace as necessary.
5. Faulty drain microswitch on the cam timer. With the power off and the drain cam in the "home” position, remove the WHITE/YELLOW wire from the microswitch. Measure the continuity between the ORANGE wire on the microswitch and the tab that the WHITE/YELLOW wire was connected to. If there is no continuity, replace the switch
Dishmachine will not hold water1. Faulty drain ball. Replace as necessary.
2. Drain hole may be obstructed. Remove the obstruction.
3. Drain rod bent or binding. Repair the rod. or replace as necessary
Sanitizer pump runs continuously1. Shorted prime switch. If there is not 120 volts between the GREY and WHITE/RED wires to the prime switch, replace it.
2. Shorted sanitizer microswitch on the cam timer. If there is not 120 volts between the ORANGE and GREY wires on the san- itizer microswitch when the switch is out of the ‘home’ position, replace the switch
Sanitizer pump does not run during the cycle, but does run when primed1. Loose or broken wire. Verify that all wires are whole and that their connections are tight.
2. Faulty sanitizer microswitch on the cam timer. With the sanitizer cam in the "home” position, measure the voltage between the ORANGE and GREY wires on the microswitch. If it reads 120 volts, replace the microswitch
Prime switch does not activate the sanitizer pump1. Faulty prime switch. With the prime switch in the prime position, check for voltage between the GREY and the WHITE/RED wires to the prime switch. If it reads 120 volts, replace the switch.
2. Faulty delime switch. With the delime switch in the DELIME position
Sanitizer pump doesn’t run during the cycle or through the prime switch1. Loose sanitizer pump motor wire. Verify and tighten connections to the motor.
2. Faulty sanitizer pump motor. If you read 120 volts at the sanitizer motor terminals during the sanitizer feed cycle, replace motor
Detergent not feeding, rinse aid feeds correctly. Misadjusted cam. Adjust the detergent cam on the timer.
2. Faulty detergent microswitch on the cam timer. With the detergent cam in the ‘home’ position, measure voltage between ORANGE and GREY/WHITE wires. If it reads 120 volts, replace the microswitch
Rinse aid not feeding, detergent feeds correctly1. Misadjusted cam. Adjust the rinse aid cam on the timer.
2. Faulty rinse aid microswitch on the cam timer. With the rinse aid cam in the “home" position, measure the voltage between the ORANGE and ORANGE/YELLOW wires. If it reads 120 volts, replace the microswitch

Ecolab ES-4400 Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Problem Solution
Nothing on dishmachine operates. The power switch is ON and the power indicator light is OFF1. Machine is not wired correctly to incoming power source. Have an electrician verify wiring.
2. Machine circuit breaker is tripped. Reset the circuit breaker. If it trips again, contact an electrician to verify the machine amp draw.
3. Service breaker is tripped. Reset the service breaker. If it trips again, contact an electrician to verify the machine amp draw
Machine will not fill. The power switch is ON and the power indicator light is ON1. No water supply to machine. Verify that water lines have been connected to the machine.
2. Dishmachine doors are not closed. Close doors completely.
3. Incoming water solenoid valve damaged/faulty. Verify that the valve is operating.
4. Tank floats faulty. Verify the wiring of the floats. Verify that no debns is jamming the floats
Machine fills, but fill is weak1. Low incoming water pressure. Verify that incoming water pressure during fill is 20 ±5 PSI.
2. Incoming water solenoid is clogged. Verify that debris is not entrapped in valve. If so. remove debns
Low wash tank temperature1. Low incoming water temperature. Verify that the incoming water temperature matches what is indicated on the machine data plate.
2. Heater not energizing. Verify that the wash tank heater is operating.
3. Low incoming voltage. Have an electrician verify that the power coming to the machine is the same as indicated on the data plate
Low wash arm pressure, poor spray pattern1. Clogged wash arm nozzles. Verify that nozzles are not clogged with debns. If so, remove debris.
2. Clogged wash tank or wash pump strainers. Clean out strainers if necessary.
3. Worn wash pump impeller. Verify status of impeller, replace if necessary
Low prewash arm pressure, poor spray pattern1. Clogged prewash arm nozzles. Verify that nozzles are not clogged with debris. If so, remove debris.
2. Clogged prewash tank or prewash pump strainers. Clean out strainers if necessary.
3. Worn prewash pump impeller. Verify status of impeller, replace if necessary
Inadequate rinse1. Low incoming water pressure. Verify that incoming water pressure during fill is 20 ±5 PSI.
2. Incoming water solenoid is clogged. Verify that debris is not entrapped in valve.
Pawl bar moves with no load, but does not move when loaded1. Clutch on drive assembly is out of adjustment. Adjust as required
Pawl bar does not move1. Failed or broken overload spring. Replace spring if necessary.
2. No power to the drive motor/failed drive motor. Verify power and wiring connections to the motor.
3. Pawl bar not properly installed. Verify that the pawl bar is installed correctly
Racks go through the machine, but results are poor1. Verify that detergent is being dispensed into the machine at the appropriate quantities for the water volume. If not, get deter- gent to appropriate level and review results of washing ware.
2. Clogged strainers/scrap basket. Clean out strainers and scrap basket and replace.
3. Ware not being properly prescraped.
4. Wash or rinse arms missing end plugs or caps. Verify and replace as required.
5. Low tank heat
6. Inadequate rinse
7. Incorrect voltage coming to the machine. Verify that the voltage matches that on the machine data plate.
8. Wash pump cavitation due to low water level. Verify that the drains are shut and that the water level is correct
Spotting of silverware, glasses and dishes1. Incorrect final rinse temperature. Verify that the rinse water temperature matches that which is listed on the machine data plate.
2. Clogged wash and/or rinse nozzles and arms. Remove the arms and verify that they and their nozzles are free from debris.
3. Excessively hard water. Install a water softener to reduce hardness.
4. Loss of water pressure due to clogged/obstructed wash pump. Turn the power off to the machine at the source. Drain the wash tank of water and verify that the pump intake is free from debris.
5. Improper scrapping procedures.
6. Incorrect detergent/chemical concentrations. Verify that the detergent/chemical concentrations are correct for the associated water volume

Ecolab Delta5 Dishwasher Troubleshooting

Problem Solution
Water overflow from bottom of door1. Clogged drain. Remove obstruction.
2. Machine not level. Level machine, or increase height to the front.
3. Excessive inlet pressure. Install pressure redudng valve, or adjust if one is present. Ensure flow is 20 ±5 PSI.
4. Detergent foaming. Reduce detergent quantity.
5. Excessive fill time. Adjust timer fill time
Wash motor doesn’t operate on manual wash1. Loose or broken wires. Reconnect or replace wires in motor.
2. Defective manual wash switch. Replace.
3. Defective motor starting relay. Replace
Motor operates on manual wash/delime but not on automatic1. Defective circuit in manual wash switch. Replace switch
No water comes through the rinse arms when the “FILL” switch is depressed1. Water not turned on. Turn water on.
2. Defective solenoid valve. Replace solenoid valve
Little or no water coming through the rinse assemblies1. Limed up rinse heads or piping. Delime rinse heads.
2. Low water pressure. Increase pipe size to machine. Adjust pressure regulator
Rinse water runs continuously with breaker turned off1. Defective plunger in solenoid valve. Replace.
2. Defective diaphragm in solenoid valve. Replace diaphragm
Wash temperature not at required reading on thermometer1. Check that white/blue wires are connected.
2. Defective thermometer. Replace.
3. Defective thermostat. Adjust thermostat. Replace thermostat.
4. Rinse heater defective. Replace heater element.
5. Defective heater contactor R2. Replace.
6. Incoming inlet water temperature below required minmum.
7. Defective heater delay relay (R4). Replace